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Every summer, since the days of Mao Zedong, the leaders of China's Communist party have decamped to the coastal resort of Beidaihe to debate the country's future from the comfort of luxurious seaside villas hidden behind high walls. Four hours' drive from the distractions of Beijing, it has been a perfect place to escape the capital's stifling heat, take in the sea air, and conduct secretive conclaves in heavily guarded compounds, in between refreshing dips. But in recent years, the region has been attracting visitors of a very different kind. On a chilly morning, just a little way south along…
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