Lima delight: A surprising thing happened on the way to Machu Picchu

LIMA, Peru - Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail. Cusco and the Sacred Valley. They are all good reasons for a trip to Peru. Those, and the cats. But in visiting Peru, I didn't expect that Lima - the capital city most tourists use as a starting point for seeing the country - would be an intriguing attraction in itself. With a population of more than 11 million, Lima is a rising star among world-class cities. It's a place where ancient history and long-held traditions blend with evolving modernism and foreign influences to create an excitement you can breathe in on…